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Mountview Landscaping
377 Highway 2
RR # 1
Princeton, Ontario
Canada N0J 1V0

P: (519) 458-8179
F: (519) 458-8092

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GARLIC MUSTARD
Brian Gill
May, 12 2013

GARLIC MUSTARD
Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is a biennial flowering plant in the Mustard family. Native to Europe, it was brought to North America by European immigrants in the 1800’s. It has since become an invasive species.
First year plants are only leaves that remain close to the ground. In the second year, the plant grows up to 100 cm. in height. It is pollinated by insects or can self-pollinate. The self-pollinated plants are genetically identical to the parent plant so it can continue to thrive in a good growing environment. Seeds are shiny black up to 3 mm . in length and are produced in pods. When the pod breaks the seeds are scattered. Each plant can produce up to 850 seeds.
Chopped leaves were used to flavour salads and sauces. At one time the plant was used as a disinfectant and a diuretic.
Garlic Mustard is usually found growing in shaded areas with rich, moist soil. Once established, a colony of this plant will choke out native woodland plants like Trilliums and Wild Ginger. It has become a severe threat.
If you have this plant growing on your property, the only way to get rid of it is to pull it out before it seeds. This may take up to 5 seasons to decimate the seed bank as seeds can remain dormant for up to 20 months. If the plant is growing on nearby properties, you will get seeds from your neighbours.
It is going to take a concentrated effort on everyone’s part to limit the spread of this noxious plant

Brian Gill
brian@mountviewservices.com

Brian was born and raised in Paris Ontario and currently resides in Woodstock, Ontario. He studied Business and Economics at Mohawk College and McMaster University in Hamilton Ontario. He has worked in the landscape industry for the past 10 years. His dream vacation is a month long solo canoe trip in Quetico Provincial Park.

TROUT LILY
Brian Gill
May, 5 2013

TROUT LILY
The Trout Lily (Erythronium americunum) is an early spring blooming, eastern Canada wildflower. Other common names are Adder’s tongue and Yellow Dog Tooth Violet. The Adder’s tongue comes from the appearance of a snake tongue when the plant first is emerging from the ground and Dog tooth violet from the white tooth shaped corm.
This plant prefers deciduous forests with rich humus soil. Young plants are flowerless and have a single brown, purple, green mottled leaf. Older plants have two leaves and bear a single flower that produces one seed. They bloom in early spring and by June the above ground parts of the plant have all but disappeared. Underground the plant is busy sending out new roots and developing new corms. During flowering season the plants are pollinated by ants.
If left undisturbed, the Trout Lily can form vast colonies of plants of different ages. Some colonies are estimated to be 300 years old.
Everyone has their favorite first sign of spring. The Trout Lily in bloom is mine.

EASTERN SKUNK CABBAGE
Brian Gill
April, 28 2013

EASTERN SKUNK CABBAGE
The Eastern Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus) may be the most ignored plant of the early spring, but it is one of the more interesting. Anyone who has been for a walk in early spring along eastern wetlands has seen the folded green and mottled purple “leaves” of this plant. These will appear while the temperature is still below freezing. This is possible because the skunk cabbage is thermogenesis, meaning it can produce its own heat (as high as 35 degrees Celsius while the air temperature is still below freezing).
These early leaves (spathe) never unfold as they protect the flower. The stem and leaves are still below ground at this point. The foul smell of this plant is used to attract insects for pollination. Small pea sized seeds are produced and fall to the ground. Shifting mud and water movement disperse the seeds.
It is almost impossible to dig up a mature skunk cabbage. The rhizome can be up to 30 cm. thick (1 foot) and the plant has contractile roots. Each year, as the plant grows, the roots pull it deeper into the mud so the older the plant the deeper into the mud it will grow.
At one time this plant was used to treat respiratory disease and nervous disorders. First Nations people used the dried leaves for medicine and as a talisman. The plant is not poisonous to the touch but the roots are toxic and the leaves will burn the inside of your mouth.
As you can see, the Eastern Skunk Cabbage is a very interesting plant even if it is stinky and plain looking.

A MUSEUM VISIT
Brian Gill
April, 21 2013

A MUSEUM VISIT
As a boy growing up along the banks of the Grand River on the outskirts of Paris Ontario, and long before modern technology had taken hold of a young person’s pastime, we played outside and used our imagination to have fun. When we weren’t roaming the fields and woods along the river, one of our chores was to help weed the family garden. Although this wasn’t our favorite pastime, we did it in hopes of finding artifacts left behind by the First Nation’s People that inhabited the area in the past. On occasion we would find chert and flint points and scrapers. This would often lead to a gathering of the neighbourhood kids to examine the new find and make up stories about the history of the item in question.
Long before Chief Joseph Brant moved to the Grand River (October 1784), and settled in what is now Brantford Ontario, Southern Ontario was inhabited by the Attawandaron people. The early French explorers called them the Neutral as they lived between the Huron around Georgian Bay and the Iroquois in what is now the United States. The Attawandaron tried to stay out of the conflict that went on between the two, hence the name Neutral. By the mid 1650’s the Attawandaron had all but disappeared. It is believed that any survivors were assimilated into neighbouring Iroquois tribes.
Now, you may be reading this and wondering what my musings on my childhood in the late 1950’s has to do with a museum. Three weeks ago, my brother and I went to the Museum of Ontario Archaeology in London. Our original visit was to see the temporary exhibit about the history of the Grand River. This display consists of 12 panels showing the history of the river. What we weren’t prepared for was the permanent display of artifacts found on site and from the surrounding area.
The Museum of Ontario Archaeology is built on the site of a 500 year old Attawandaron village. It sits on a flat plateau surrounded on three sides by the Medway River and Snake Creek. At one time this village occupied about 5 acres and was inhabited by an estimated 2,000 people. The remains of 19 long houses have been found and the site has yielded over 30,000 artifacts. Many are on display in the museum. The permanent display traces 13,000 years of Southern Ontario history. Outside, part of the log palisade and village buildings has been reconstructed. Current events include guest speakers, craft sales, traditional pow wows and harvest festivals and kids day camps. If you are interested in the early history of Southern Ontario, this museum is worth a visit. I did come to find out from our visit that our childhood finds are much older than we thought so next time we will take them with us to try and estimate a more precise date.
To get more information visit www.archaeologymuseum.ca and follow on Facebook - Museum of Ontario Archaeology.

SPRING FERTILIZER
Ryan Johnson
April, 14 2013

Spring Fertilizer
As we’ve had a few warm days now we’re starting to get a lot of questions about spring fertilizer. Every year we have customers who want us on site the day after the snow melts away so their lawn gets a good start. This is a misconception. Fertilizing your lawn now is equivalent to putting a plate of food in front of a coma patient. It may be delicious, but there is no way they can eat it, and when they do wake up the food will be rotten or stolen by mice. The principle nutrient in most spring fertilizers is Nitrogen. Nitrogen can come in many forms and some of them will stay in place in the soil and work at cool temperatures. The forms used in turf fertilization will not. They are very volatile in the surface and will rapidly leach down into the soil or even evaporate without enough water. We need to look to nature to determine when we should be fertilizing. One common rule of thumb is when the Maple trees leaf out. I like to get through the first mowing of the year. The key principle is to feed your lawn when it is eating. If the plant is dormant from either the winter or drought conditions, then it’s not eating. A quick early jump in the spring has more to do with proper fertilization in the fall so the plant was able to store nutrients in the root system over winter. Fertilizing too early in the spring will likely allow the nutrients to leach too deep into the soil and likely be a waste of money and energy.

Ryan Johnson
ryan@mountviewservices.com

Ryan was raised in Drumbo Ontario and currently resides outside Princeton Ontario. He has a Political Science degree from Laurentian University. As the second generation in the landscape industry he has over 25 years experience. When not working he enjoys boating with his family on Lake Erie.

SPRING SHRUB MAINTENANCE
Brian Gill
April, 7 2013

SPRING SHRUB MAINTENANCE
The weather is slowly getting warmer, and before the shrubs start budding, you should have your spring pruning and shearing done.
Here is a partial list of common shrubs you can prune worry free. Spirea, potentilla, hydrangea (Annabelle and Pee Gee), Rose of Sharon, Butterfly bush, and Japanese Bayberry should be cut back now. If your clematis blooms on new growth it should be cut back now also. Woody perennials like Russian sage can have up to ½ of the old growth removed to stimulate new growth.
Check trees for winter damage and prune broken branches and cross over branches out.
Any shrub that is grown for the bark colour such as yellow-twigged and red osier dogwood should be severely cut back every couple of years to stimulate new bright coloured growth.
If rose bushes have started to bud, they can be pruned now.
If unsure, please consult your local garden centre or landscaper.

MARSH MARIGOLD
Brian Gill
March, 16 2013

MARSH MARIGOLD
Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) is a herbaceous perennial plant native to marshes and wet woodlands in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. It is an ancient plant that survived the last ice age.
The plant grows best in partial shade. It can reach a height of 80 cm. with hollow stems and kidney shaped leaves. The flowers are yellow and most have 5 petals but this can vary from 4 to 9. Because the flowers of the Marsh Marigold are rich in pollen and nectar, insects flock to this plant. At the end of the flowering season, seed pods form and burst, dispensing the seed.
Because the Marsh Marigold is a member of the buttercup family it contains toxins that can irritate the skin.
This plant can also be used in ornamental water gardens. Please purchase at a reputable water garden supplier. Leave the woodland plants alone. Enjoy them for their beauty in their natural habitat.

ONTARIO TRILLIUMS
Brian Gill
March, 9 2013

ONTARIO TRILLIUMS
Trillium is a genus of spring ephemeral perennials native to temperate regions of North America and Asia. Spring ephemeral refers to woodland flowers that develop stems, leaves and flowers early each spring, quickly bloom and produce seeds then die off leaving only roots, rhizomes and bulbs.
In Ontario, it is common to see the Great white trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) and the Red trillium (trillium erectum). There is a small population of Drooping trillium (Trillium flexipes) that is protected by law in Ontario. Other types are seen but are not as common.
The White trillium is the emblem and official flower in Ontario and is the official symbol of the Ontario Government.
In Ontario the white trillium is protected in provincial parks and land owned by conservation authorities. HOWEVER, picking a trillium seriously damages the plant by preventing food production for next year’s growth and the plant may take years to recover.
Trillium seeds are spread by ants. At maturity, the base and core of the trillium ovary turns soft and spongy. The seeds develop a fleshy organ called an elaisome that attracts ants. The ants take the seeds to their nests, eat the elaisome and discard the seed. The seed then can germinate in a rich growing medium.
There are many wild flowers to enjoy in the spring. Please tread lightly, take only pictures and leave only footprints.

FORSYTHIA
Brian Gill
March, 3 2013

FORSYTHIA
Also called Golden Bells, the bright yellow flowers of the forsythia are one of the early signs of spring. This is a fast growing shrub that can easily get to 10 feet in height and diameter. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil, but will tolerate partial shade and poorer soil. If you like the forsythia flower, watch the bud development in the spring. A couple of weeks before the shrub flowers cut some branches and put in a vase indoors. This will brighten up the interior of your home.
Forsythia is a shrub that gets pruned right after flowering as flowers bloom on new growth from the previous year and the flower buds for next year set not long after blooming. Start when shrub is young to control height and maintain the graceful arching shape.
To prune, start by removing ¼ to 1/3 of old branches at ground level. This allows light and air in and will contribute to new growth. Prune the other branches to shape, allowing for this seasons growth. If you have an old out of control forsythia, cut everything back to about 4 inches above ground height. In a couple of years you will have a healthy new shrub growing.
If unsure about pruning this shrub, contact your local garden centre advice.

OAK TREES OF ONTARIO
Brian Gill
February, 17 2013

OAK TREES OF ONTARIO
Much of the forested area between Long Point and Cambridge Ontario is Eastern Deciduous Forest and in Canada it is often referred to as a Carolinian Forest. This area of Ontario is the Northern growing area of much of the flora and fauna common in forests as far south as Carolina. There are three types of oak trees that are indicator species for this forest. Many of these oak trees keep their leaves all winter. Most oak trees do not produce acorns until they are at least 25 years old. Some may not produce until they are 50 years of age. Acorn production increases each year until the tree is about 100 years old then production slows down.
NORTHERN RED OAK (Querus rubra) – The Red Oak tree grows straight and tall. Height can easily reach 90 feet and under ideal growing conditions can reach 140 feet. The truck diameter can reach 4 feet. The acorns of the Red Oak are very bitter. This tree is easy to identify as a Red Oak by the leaves. The lobes of the leaf terminate with a long bristle-pointed tooth.
WHITE OAK (Querus alba) – The White Oak tree grows to a height of 80 feet to 100 feet with a truck diameter of 4 feet. The acorns are not nearly as bitter as the Red Oak and are eaten by wild turkeys, wood ducks, pheasants, squirrels, deer and other forest dwellers. The lobes of the leaf are blunt and easily distinguished from the Red Oak. The White Oak easily hybridizes with the Bur Oak.
BUR OAK (Querus macrocarpa) – The Bur Oak is a very slow growing tree and can be as slow as 1 foot a year. At maturity it can reach 100 feet to 120 feet in height with a truck diameter of 8 feet. Deer and porcupines eat the leaves, trigs and bark. The leaves are similar looking to the White Oak but the lobes are not as large. The Bur Oak can easily hybridize with the White Oak. The Bur Oak is the most common oak tree in Ontario.
The wood of oak trees has always been used in construction. Here is an interesting example. The USS Constitution is a 3-masted heavy frigate launched in 1797. It is the world’s oldest commissioned war ship and to this day maintains a crew of 60 officers and sailors. It was constructed of White Oak and was nicknamed “Old Ironsides” during the War of 1812 as the British cannonballs bounced off the hull. The US Navy maintains a grove of White Oaks (Constitution Grove) where the wood is harvested to manufacture replacement parts for the frigate.

GARDEN TRENDS FOR 2013
Brian Gill
January, 27 2013

GARDEN TRENDS FOR 2013
As I sip on my morning coffee and watch the full moon (Wolf Moon) fade in the pre-dawn light, my thoughts turn to warmer weather. The new seed catalogues have all arrived and my wife and I have planned our first two back yard projects for the spring. Listed below are a few trends we should see in 2013.
Extending living space outdoors – the use of patios, fire pits, and water features will continue to be popular.
Conservation of water – the use of a drip irrigation system gets water right to the roots of the plants
Native plants – using native plants helps with water and pesticide use as the plant is typically resistant to native pests and acclimatized to the area
Container gardening – people with small outdoor spaces will continue to grow in containers but will grow edible plants like herbs along with flowers. This will extend to growing plants like snap peas along a chain link fence.
Heirloom seeds – if you’re growing a few vegetables try plants from heirloom seeds. The taste of Red Brandywine tomatoes can’t be beat. This tomato was introduced by the Amish in 1885 and is named after the Brandywine River in Pennsylvania (not the Hobbit).

CHAIN SAW SAFETY
John Perriman
January, 16 2013

Chain saw safety.

It is very important to take the proper safety precautions when operating a chain saw. It all starts with the right CSA approved safety gear including, hard hat, eye protection, hearing protecting, safety chaps, and green patch work boots. Before starting the saw give it a visual inspection. Is the chain sharp? Is it tensioned properly? Are all the safety guards in place and functional? Have any bolts shaken loose? Once the inspection is complete check the fluids and filters. Top up the fuel and the chain oil and check and make sure the air filter is clean. Cleaning the air filter not only improves the engines combustion therefore increasing power but will help lengthen engine life. Next let’s take a look at what you are cutting and what is surrounding it. Look at any potential trip hazards around what you are cutting remove as many as possible. Are there power lines overhead? What about maybe moving that picnic table before you drop the tree on top of it. One of the most important parts of operating a chain saw is knowing your abilities. If you just picked up your first chainsaw you probably shouldn’t cut down the 100 year old maple tree in your back yard that is hanging over your neighbor’s pool. Start small understand how the tree is going to react when you start cutting it and work your way up to larger more challenging trees. Cutting trees down safely can seem expensive sometimes but nowhere near as expensive as replacing your neighbor’s pool.

John Perriman
john@mountviewservices.com

John was born and raised just outside of Ayr, Ontario. He studied Horticulture at the University of Guelph, Guelph Ontario and Greenhouse and Nursery Management at Kwantlen University College in Langley British Columbia. He has worked in various aspects of the landscape industry for the past 13 years. He spends as much time as possible visiting family in England.

WINTER ARRANGEMENTS
Kylie Vandewiel
November, 18 2012

WINTER ARRANGEMENTS
Houses can look bare in the winter. Lights are always a good way to show off your house, but how about trying some winter arrangements in your planters. People forget that they can be used in the winter too. There are many different ways that your arrangements can look; it all depends on your sense of design. You can have your arrangements full and luscious, or more of a contemporary feel, it all depends on what you like. Bright colours will help the arrangements stand out but having an earthier feel is very nice too. Good accents for earthy arrangements can be red dogwood, grass plumes, or white birch branches. If you’re not looking for an earthy feel, bows, decorative balls, and lights are a good way for your urns to stand out. Pretty much any type of tree or shrub that will not lose its needles is a good option to build your urn. Spruce, cedar and pine are three examples. It is always easier to get your branches in the urns standing up in denser soil. Evergreen branches can be top heavy so make sure they are always deep in the soil. If you still have problems with your arrangements falling over, put a stake in where it is not seen and wrap tall evergreen branches with twine or fishing line to help the branches stand up. Hopefully these tips help you understand how to make winter arrangements. Never forget to make them the way you like.

Kylie Vandewiel
kylie@mountviewservices.com

Kylie was raised in Paris Ontario and the surrounding area. She is a graduate of Paris District High School and the Niagara College Horticulture Program. She joined Mountview right after college. In her spare time she relaxes in her garden and playing softball. Her ideal vacation would be a trip to Keukenhof Holland to see the tulip gardens.

REMEBRANCE DAY
Brian Gill
November, 11 2012

Every day, the men and women of our Armed Forces put themselves in harms way to protect our freedoms. Far too many pay the ultimate sacrifice. Remember them always.

FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER
Brian Gill
November, 4 2012

FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER
One of the simple pleasures in winter is sitting with a morning coffee, looking out the window into the back yard and watching the antics of the birds at the feeders.
Since we spend a lot of time outside all year, we are very familiar with the local bird species in our area. Different species require different foods and vary in their willingness to eat at feeders. By knowing the species you can make or purchase the correct type of feeder.
Birds, like humans require food, water and shelter to survive. With food, if you scatter some commercial bird food on the ground, you’ll soon discover the bird species in your immediate vicinity. We have a waterfall and fish pond that in the winter we remove the waterfall pump and install a heater and small pump to bubble at the surface. The sound of the water attracts birds. For shelter we have a large cedar tree and euonymus hedge where there are always 20 to 30 sparrows spending the night. At the back of the property we planted 3 Eastern White Pine, 4 red cedars, 3 dogwood and 2 spruce trees. This area is now quite dense and protected and the birds are loving it.
I mentioned earlier about feeders. Near the cedar tree we hang a plastic hopper feeder for the sparrows. Since sparrows are by nature, messy, a lot of food falls on the ground for the doves. Near the euonymus hedge is a 4 foot stump that is a flat feeder for the doves and sparrows. In the summer the stump is used for a plant stand. On the arbour we hang a couple of suet feeders that attract downy woodpeckers and chickadees. At the edge of the trees at the back are 2 flat feeders with branches attached for roosts. Extra peanuts in these attract the cardinals and blue jays along with 3 kinds of finches and the usual host of sparrows and doves.
These are just a few simple tricks to attract local bird species. Try it and have fun watching our feathered friends.

REPLACEMENT LED BULBS
Brian Gill
October, 28 2012

Replacement LED Bulbs are Now Available from Mountview Landscaping

Designed by Illumicare Group Limited (www.illumicaregroup.com), this popular product line features the only complete selection of retrofit bulbs built specifically for your existing low voltage fixtures, including brands such as Cast, Nightscaping, and many others.

Compared to traditional halogen and incandescent bulbs, these bulbs consume up to 85% less electricity, while still delivering the perfect warm illumination you rely on for your outdoor lighting.

You won’t have to worry about changing bulbs again. Illumicare’s LED bulbs are rated to operate for up to 40,000 hours, which offers 12-15 years (based on a daily 6-hour run time) of illumination and carry a 4-year warranty.

Call Mountview today to start increasing your green footprint by replacing your old, inefficient, landscape lighting bulbs.

Scott Sim, Turf Care Products Canada

Scott Sim
Account Manager
Landscape Products Group
Turf Care Products Canada
scotts@turfcare.ca
226-377-2779

GROWING GRASS IN SHADE
John Perriman
October, 21 2012

As I’m running around winterizing irrigation systems I’m reminded of one huge myth in the turf world. “Grass won’t grow in the shade”. With new housing developments the houses can be as close as 8 feet apart. And the roof overhangs another 2.5 feet on either house therefore no water is reaching the turf. Granted full shade is not ideal conditions for turf to grow in. But 9 times out of 10 the biggest factor is how much water the turf is getting. Older homes have mature trees. With all those leaves trees require a huge amount of water. So who loses out? The turf! With proper irrigation in most circumstances turf will grow beside that cedar hedge or under that maple tree. Even between your houses. It just needs to get its fair share of the water. So quit buying the latest fancy shade blend that a seed company has to offer and just give your lawn some water. By watering appropriately and cutting at the proper height the turf will grow.

FALL PROPERTY CLEANUP
Brian Gill
October, 14 2012

FALL PROPERTY CLEANUP
Each year I enjoy the arrival signs of fall such as the tree leaves turning colour but I don’t really consider fall to be here until the first heavy ground frost. In the Woodstock Ontario area we woke up Saturday morning to a heavy frost. Now it’s time to clean up the gardens.
In the picture you can see how one good frost destroyed annuals like Marigolds and perennials like hostas. Many people will leave these plants for a spring cleanup. To avoid giving disease and pests like snails and slugs a place to over winter, remove these plants now. This gives the garden a clean start in the spring.
Any accumulated leaves in the garden or on the lawn should also be removed. Some leaves can be left to protect plants but on the lawn if the leaves can’t be mulch they should be removed to avoid dead spots in the spring.
Now is also the time to plant spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils. Also dig up gladiola and canna bulbs and after drying and removing the soil store them in peat moss in the basement and replant in the spring.
Here in Woodstock the city has a dumping area for all garden debris. They compost the debris and put it out for the residence to use for free. (tree branches are turned into wood chips). I don’t know if other local communities like Brantford and Paris has a program like this but it is worth looking into.
Hope everyone enjoys the fall season.

GOLDENROD - WEED OR WILDFLOWER
Brian Gill
September, 30 2012

GOLDENROD – WEED OR WILDFLOWER

The Goldenrod plant may be one of the most misunderstood plants. Is it a weed or a wildflower. That determination rests solely with the individual.
Canadian Goldenrod (Solidago Canadensis) is a member of the Aster family, and is a perennial that reproduces both by rhizomes and by seed.
Some interesting facts about Goldenrod:
- The pollen is heavy and sticky and not wind born so the guilty culprit for the allergies is ragweed.
- Bees love this plant and a very tasty honey is produced
- Thomas Edison’s experiments produced 12 foot high plants that he used to produce rubber from the leaves to make the tires for his Model T
- Extreme development was conducted during WW II to commercially produce rubber from Goldenrod
- A tonic made from Goldenrod has been used to treat kidney inflammation
- Native Americans chewed the leaves to relieve sore throats and the roots to relieve toothaches
- Goldenrod is the state flower of Kentucky and Nebraska
- Goldenrod is the state wildflower for South Carolina and the state herb of Delaware
Weed or wildflower? You decide.

GARDEN FOCAL POINTS
Carolyn Sawyer
September, 23 2012

When designing your garden you always need a focal point. Something that makes people notice your garden and say wow! You usually put focal points where people commonly walk by. Focal points don't always have to be plants. They can be a fountain, bird bath, decorative stone, or bubbling rock. You can also accentuate the focal point at night by adding lighting around it. Focal points are a great way to add a personal touch and enjoy your garden that much more.

Carolyn Sawyer
carolyn@mountviewservices.com

Carolyn grew up in and still resides in Waterford, Ontario. She is a graduate of Waterford High School and the Landscape Technician program at Humber College in Toronto. Her work experience includes work at local greenhouses and landscape maintenance along the Rideau Canal in Ottawa. When not working her passion is playing softball.

GARDEN DESIGN -1
Carolyn Sawyer
September, 16 2012

When designing a garden there are many things to think about. The location of your garden, how much and what time of day it gets sun, is it sheltered from wind. What type of soil; is it clay, sand or combination. Once you have figured out these steps you can then move on to your plants. When considering location you also want to think about if you will be sitting outside close to this garden entertaining guests. You want to think about this because it is always nice to have some soft sounds from grasses or even using fragrant flowers.

CINCH BUGS
Brian Gill
September, 9 2012

CINCH BUGS

Cinch bugs (Blissus leucopterus hirtus) thrive in the hot, dry summer weather we just experienced. One of the best deterrents is a good irrigation system, as cinch bugs don’t like moist conditions. As we can no longer use pesticides to control cinch bugs, the answer lies in a healthy lawn.
Adult cinch bugs spend winter under shrubs and leaves etc. In the spring the adults emerge into the lawn and the females lay their eggs. As the eggs hatch both the nymphs and adults contribute to the destruction of the lawn. The damage occurs when they suck the sap out of the blades of grass. A properly maintained lawn will be less susceptible to cinch bug damage.
If caught early, most cinch bug damage can be repaired. Aerating and overseeding is the first step. You also want to start an organic lawn care program low in nitrogen. Also, proper mowing techniques must be maintained. Start now by cutting your lawn no less than 3 inches and keep debris like dead leaves off the lawn and from around shrubs and hedges. Aerate and overseed in the next 5 weeks. Keep the lawn watered (it is hard with restrictions on water use but it can be done). Add a low nitrogen fertilizer program and next spring your lawn will be well on its way to the lush, green lawn home owners want.

FALL LAWN CARE
Brian Gill
September, 1 2012

FALL LAWN CARE

Wow! Hard to believe it’s September 1st already. Where has the summer gone? Many people are also wondering where their nice green lawn from the spring disappeared to. Some have a few brown spots while others have lost large areas or most of the lawn. With the hot, dry summer we had here in Southern Ontario this year, it really brought home the point that to keep your lawn looking good all year it takes constant care. There are many examples driving down the street of a lush green lawn next to a weed bed or brown savannah. The difference – a good lawn care program. Many factors contribute to this and have been covered in previous blogs so just a quick summary here:
- Mowing to short. Low mowing favours the growth of weeds and insect infestations. Keep lawn cut at 3” to 3 ¼” and never remove more than 1/3 of the length at any single mowing.
- Not aerating. Aeration relieves soil compaction and improves moisture and air movement in the soil to aid in root development.
- Lake of thatch control. Thatch is a layer of organic material just above the soil surface and helps regulate the soil temperature.
- Proper irrigation. The right amount of water at the right time (this can be done with a garden hose and sprinkler)
- Lack of overseeding. Overseeding thickens the lawn and repairs damage done by insects, weeds and drought.
- Lack of a good organic fertilizer program. This will keep the nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) content of the soil in balance.
If your lawn has suffered this summer, it’s not to late to start a recovery for spring. For the next 5 weeks we will be aerating and overseeding. There is still one fertilizer application left at the end of September.
Start now to prepare your lawn for spring.

UPCOMING BLOG SUBJECTS
Brian Gill
August, 19 2012

UPCOMING BLOG SUBJECTS
Over the next few weeks some of the blog topics will be:
- Winterizing your garden
- Fall planting of bulbs
- Gravel sweeping
- Proper use of trimmers
- Costs associated with equipment breakdown
- Alternate de-icers
- Tree diseases
- Interlock maintenance
These are only a few of the upcoming blog subjects. If there is any subject you would like information on, please e-mail any of the blog authors.

LOW MAINTENANCE, DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS
Brian Gill
August, 12 2012

LOW MAINTENANCE, DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS
With the busy lives people are living today, finding time to maintain a garden gets very difficult. If you are careful when choosing plants, time to keep a garden looking its best can be kept to a minimum. The hot, dry weather this summer has also contributed to gardens not looking their best. It is impossible to list every plant to fit this scenario, so only a few popular perennials will be listed below. Supplemental watering is required to get the plants established, but after that they should be fine.
Autumn Joy Sedum has a large pink flower head appearing midsummer. In the fall the flower turns a rusty red colour. This is a good plant to attract butterflies and is often left standing to provide some winter interest in the garden. The picture is sedum just prior to blooming.
Moonbeam Coreopsis has a light yellow, daisy like flower. It is tolerant of hot dry sites once established.
Black Eyed Susan is a long blooming with flowers in red, orange and yellow. They do well in full sun or light shade. They tolerate tough growing conditions are good for cut flower displays.
Stella D'Ora daylily flowers for months on end. It has a dense clump of green foliage with yellow trumpet shaped flowers. It is very compact and does well in a variety of planting conditions.
Liatris has a low clump of leaves and tall spikes of flowers. This plant is very drought tolerant and attracts butterflies.
This is a list of only five perennials that do well with very little care. Visit your local garden centre and talk to your local landscaper for many more options.

UNDER THE SPREADING WALNUT TREE
Brian Gill
August, 5 2012

UNDER THE SPREADING WALNUT TREE
The plants I could not grow (with deepest apologies to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow)
If you have a Black Walnut tree (Juglans nigra) on or near your property and are having trouble growing plants, don't despair, perhaps you are trying to grow the wrong plants. The problem is a chemical called juglone. This chemical is found in all parts of the walnut tree, including the roots. The root system of the Black Walnut can extend as much as 3 times the distance of the tree canopy. Also the soil texture and drainage under and around the tree can affect the toxicity. The effect on many plants is they will die or struggle to survive with weak plant growth and yellow wilting leaves.
All walnut trees produce juglone as do relatives of walnuts like hickory and pecan. The amount of juglone produced by these trees is insignificant and shouldn't affect plants. Try to maintain a high organic content by using compost and manure. This will help neutralize the toxin.
There are quite a variety of plants that will tolerate juglone and do well in this environment. A brief list is as follows:
Ground cover: Sweet Woodruff, Periwinkle
Perennials: Brown Eyed Susan, Narrow-leaf Plantain Lily, Lungwort, Solomon's Seal, Bee Balm, Phlox
Bulbs: Crocus, Grapefruit Hyacinth, Narcissus
Annuals: Begonia, Geranium, Salvia, Impatiens
Shrubs: Ninebark, Dogwood, American Holly, Forsythia
These are only a few of the plants that will grow around Black Walnut. If you ensure good soil, select and maintain the right plants, you should have no problem in your garden. Don't forget to utilize the knowledge of your local landscape contractor and garden centre.

INTERLOCK BASE
John Perriman
July, 29 2012

Interlock base

The best way to install interlock is to first asses the site. It is important to look at the way water is going to flow. It is important to get water to flow away from the house. From that point the area needs to be dug out. Depending on the thickness of the pavers used, the dig depth is typically 9 inches. The base of the hole should be nice and smooth. Then we install A grade gravel. The gravel is raked out smooth and compacted. Most vibratory tampers can only effectively compact 2 inches of gravel at a time. This means that in order to reach the 6 inches of a grade required you need to install it in 3 layers. At this point by dragging a 4 foot level over top of the gravel you can determine which direction the water will flow. The level will also show any high or low spots that may need to be knocked down or filled in. When you are satisfied with the smoothness of the A grade and that water is going to flow in the proper direction it is important to tamp the site again. After tamping use the level one more time to double check. Everything should still be nice and smooth at this point and compacted into a firm base. This is easily the most important step. Without a properly constructed base over time the rest of the project will start shifting and settling so TAKE YOUR TIME. At this point it is important to install Brickstop edging. This edging is installed along the perimeter of the area you are going to install the pavers. The edging prevents the pavers from pushing out over time keeping the joints nice and tight. Then we lay 1/2 inch electrical conduit on top of the A grade gravel. The conduit is used to help measure out a consistent and smooth layer of coarse sand. Spread a layer of coarse sand across the conduit. Then drag the 4 foot level across the conduit to smooth out the sand layer. When the sand is smooth remove the conduit. Then start installing the pavers in the pattern you have chosen. As you lay it is important to fill in the areas in the sand left by the conduit. Sprinkle small amounts of sand into these gaps and smooth it out as you go. After paver installation sweep polymeric sand into the joints. Polymeric sand is specialty sand that can be purchased where ever you buy pavers. Polymeric sand is very important. Once you have swept the surface of the pavers clean run the plate tamper over top of the pavers. This shakes the sand down into the joints and helps really lock them together. After tamping sweep polymeric sand into the joints again. This is a very time consuming process, it is important to insure all the joints are completely full so take your time. When the joints are full the polymeric sand needs to be soaked in. This requires a light misting, you do not want to use too much water or you will wash all the sand out of the joints. So start at one end of the project and work your way to the other end. Then go back and start at the beginning again. It needs a long slow soak to penetrate to the bottom of the pavers but not so heavy as to wash the sand out of the joints. Once the site has dried the interlock is ready for use!

EUONYMUS SCALE
Brian Gill
July, 22 2012

EUONYMOUS SCALE
Euonymus scale (Unaspis euonymi) is a small pest that can infect and kill plants. Heavy scale infestations will reduce photosynthesis, weaken and eventually kill part or all of the plant. Euonymus plants are most often affected but this scale can affect Winter Creeper, American Bittersweet, English Ivy and Japanese Pachysandra. On occasion Boxwood, Privet, Honeysuckle, Holly and Daphne could be infected.
Females are dark brown or grey in colour, about 1/16" long and are found mostly on the stems of plants. They are hard to see as they appear to be a small nodule on the stem. The males are about 1/32" long, white in colour and easier to see than the females as they are more abundant. They can be seen on the stems and leaves of infected plants. The eggs are very small as is the crawler stage. Both are yellow in colour.
Eggs are laid in the spring and hatch early in June. The crawlers move to other parts of the plants and start to feed by inserting mouth parts into the plant. When settled they lose their legs and secrete a waxy protective covering. In the summer the males emerge and mate with the females. The eggs are laid under a protective shell. These eggs hatch in the late summer. Mature impregnated females and the new crawlers settle in for the winter.
The first visible signs of scale are usually a yellow spotting or white dots on the leaves. If not caught early there will be thousands of scale on a plant. Heavily infested stems should be pruned out and destroyed. A badly infested plant should be removed and destroyed. Even roots can be infected. DO NOT COMPOST. Burning is the best method of destruction. If this is not possible, safely dispose of the plant offsite. Because of the scale life cycle, a severely infected plant is extremely hard to restore to good health.
Preventative maintenance is the best method of control. Keep plants pruned to allow air movement and maintain good plant health with regular watering and fertilizing. Plants grown close to foundations are more susceptible to disease because of poor air circulation. Frequently inspect your plants especially in spring and fall. If you suspect a problem, contact your local garden centre or landscape contractor to advise treatment. If purchasing new plants, inspect carefully. Also, researching resistant varieties is advisable.

CARING FOR YOUR NEW SOD
John Perriman
July, 15 2012

Caring for your new sod.

The most important thing for your new lawn is water, below are some watering tips and a good watering schedule.
To ensure you are getting enough water on the sod place a tin can 6 feet from the sprinkler, when the tin has one inch of water in the bottom move the sprinkler to a new location.
Heat is reflected off of buildings and sidewalks so be sure these areas get lots of water as they dry out fastest.

It is important to limit traffic on you new lawn for the first 2-3 weeks in order to allow for good root establishment so try to walk as little as possible on your new lawn.
Mowing your new lawn:
Your lawn can be cut 6-7 days after installation.
For plant health it is ideal to only remove 1/3 of the leaf. For optimum plant health cut your lawn at 3 1/2 inches.
It is ideal to leave the grass clippings on your lawn. This is a good source of natural nitrogen, having said that it is also important to avoid clumping on the lawn. If there is a large amount of clippings on the turf they will need to be raked up and removed. It is also good practice to alternate the direction in which you cut your lawn. One week back and forth and one week side to side. This will help to create very even growth.
At this point your lawn does not require any fertilizer. It is best to let the new lawn set roots and establish slowly instead of fertilizing and forcing new growth. 4 weeks after installation you can apply a balanced fertilizer, 7-7-7, to encourage some growth. The heavy watering schedule leaches a lot of the nitrogen from the turf. In the spring you can proceed with a regular fertilizer program.
At this point it is very important to stay on top of weed control in the turf. Whether mechanically or chemically weeds should be removed. At this point your lawn is completely weed free and if you stay on top of it now you can avoid a larger problem in the future.

ROSE HISTORY
Brian Gill
July, 8 2012

AN ENCAPSULATED HISTORY OF THE ROSE
"That which we call a rose; by any other name would smell as sweet". William Shakespear, Romeo and Juliette, Act 2 Scene 2.
Fossil evidence can date the genus Rosa back 35 million years so it has a very complicated family tree. Today there are approximately 150 species of roses spread throughout the Northern Hemisphere. In future articles we will discuss kinds of roses, soil preparation, diseases and pruning but today lets delve into the history of the rose.
Man first cultivated roses around 5,000 years ago in Asia.
Greek mythology and Hindu legend have stories about the creation of the rose.
Frescoes found in Crete dating c 1700 BC show a 5 petal pink rose.
Roses can be used to show the worst excesses of the Roman Empire. Some emporers demanded so many rose products for petals and perfumed water, they forced peasants to grow roses instead of food.
During the civil war in England in the 15th century, the white rose symbolized the house of York and the red rose, the house of Lancaster, hence the War of the Roses.
In the 17th century, rose water was legal tender.
Napolean's wife Josephine established an extensive collection of over 250 rose varieties at the Chateau de Malmaison.
Cultivated, repeat blooming roses were introduced in Europe from China during the late 18th century. These are considered old roses.
Modern roses are ones that were cultivated in England and France from the turn of the 19th century.
Today's roses can be traced back to this time frame.

LANDSCAPE LIGHTING
Ryan Johnson
July, 1 2012

Landscape Lighting - general
We are really fortunate to work in an industry where we can feel a great sense of accomplishment with our work. It really is rewarding to have our customers tell us how thrilled they are with what we've done to their yard and how much they now enjoy their time in our creations. Whether its maintenance of the plants, new patios or walls and even water features, one of the most dramatic affects we can provide is through landscape lighting.
This should never be confused with the solar lighting available at your local hardware store. Our projects are all low voltage systems that include a lifetime warranty on the transformer. Fixtures are guaranteed for between 5 years and lifetime depending on the manufacturer. All systems installed by us come with a complete 2 year service warranty that even covers bulb replacement.
The design involved in our projects focuses on the effect of the light. This means we worry about lighting trip hazards on a pathway, highlighting your favourite tree or shrub or lighting an object away from your normal gathering areas to give your yard more depth. A well designed system means most people will not see the fixture or see glare from the lamp at night. In daylight hours the fixtures are very attractive and should blend into the landscape. Another element often overlooked in lighting is that this is a 12 month addition to your landscape allowing you to enjoy the beauty of your yard in the winter as well.
Please visit our website to see examples of lighting we have installed and start thinking about what we can do in your yard.

CUTTING YOUR LAWN TOO SHORT
Sean Gannon
June, 24 2012

Cutting your lawn too short.

Cutting your lawn too short is a common mistake that can promote weed growth and increase heat stress during our sometimes extremely hot summer months. Cutting your lawn higher has many benefits.
Longer grass will shade the soil keeping it cooler which will reduce evaporation of water from the soil. The longer grass blades will allow the roots to go deeper to find water and nutrients and thus a healthier lawn.
One of the biggest mistakes some people make is thinking if I cut my lawn really short it will allow me to wait longer between cuts. The truth is shorter cut grass wants to rapidly grow back. The grass will pull moisture from the roots to increase faster growth and this inhibits root growth. The best method to use when deciding at what height to cut your lawn is to cut no more than 1/3 off the length of the grass. A drastic decrease in height can shock the grass.
When cutting grass for our customers I cut the lawn at 3 1/2 inches in height. In order to properly get that height here is a little trick. Instead of trusting what the mower says the blade height is, have the mower on a solid surface like pavement. Use a tape measure to check the distance from the pavement to the bottom of the blade to get an exact measurement of your cutting height.

Happy Mowing

Sean Gannon
sean@mountviewservices.com

Sean was born, raised and still resides in Woodstock Ontario. He is a graduate of St. Mary's High School in Woodstock and has worked at Mountview since 2004. In his spare time he coaches an under 13 boys soccer team and in the winter runs an adult co-ed soccer league. Whenever possible he travels to Scotland to cheer on the Glasgow Celtic F.C.

INCANDESCENT vs LED LANDSCAPE LIGHTING
Ryan Johnson
June, 17 2012

An exciting new development in the landscape lighting industry within the last year is the introduction of LED lamps to fit almost any existing fixture. The new LED lights are providing us with the ability to project light a distance comparable to a 50watt incandescent lamp while only drawing 6 watts. As a designer of systems this means we can build more lamps onto a single wire run without risking voltage drop. The bulb itself costs considerably more than its comparable incandescent bulb, but it can be installed with fewer wire runs, (meaning less labour and material costs) smaller transformers and a life span estimated at 40,000 hours. Incandescent lamps are usually rated for between 2,000 and 5,000 hours. Another advantage of the LED lamps is they are being offered to us in a variety of white temperature colours. The cooler temperature whites are closer to a blue tinge while the warmer ones are approaching a yellow. As a designer this allows us to pick the colour range that will best suit the item we are highlighting. Evergreen shrubs typically show best with a cooler white highlighting the plant while pathways and rocks look best with the warmer tones.
We installed our first LED systems in the summer of 2011 and after just 2 installs we realized the new products available have made incandescent almost obsolete. Install are cheaper, service calls are reduced and operating costs are miniscule.

ADDING WINTER INTEREST TO A GARDEN
Brian Gill
June, 3 2012

ADDING WINTER INTEREST TO A GARDEN

One of the continuing trends in today's landscaping, is planting to add winter interest to a garden. Hopefully winter is still a long way off and planting now will ensure your garden will look good for the winter season. There are many plants that can add this interest, from perennials left to age, shrubs and even trees if there is room. I will list a few that are readily available.

Evergreens are available in all sizes. These add solid greens and blues.

Shrubs such as boxwood and euonymus maintain their leaves all year.

Red osier and yellow twig dogwood lose their leaves but the bark looks great in the snow. Corkscrew hazel with its twisted stems is very interesting.

Perennials with large flower heads such as Pee Gee Hydrangea and Autumn Joy Sedum provide a pleasing visual effect with a light dusting of snow.

Holly keeps the leaf and provides red berries. Many of the viburnum species also maintain berries throughout the winter. Leave Rosa Rugosa unpruned in the fall so the large cherry tomato size hips are on the plant all winter.

Don't overlook ornamental grasses when planning a garden. A variety of leaf shape, height and flower head (plumes) can keep a garden looking good all year long.

If you have room for a tree, a clump of birch would be a good choice. The bark looks good all year.

As you can see, there is an endless variety of plants to keep a garden interesting all year long. The choice is yours.

CLEMATIS
Brian Gill
May, 27 2012

CLEMATIS
Clematis will allow the gardener to have plants that will bloom all summer long. The most ask question about clematis is whether to prune or not. Correct pruning will give you a healthy plant and more vigorous blooms. Incorrect pruning will not kill the plant but may delay blooming depending on what kind of clematis you have. A brief pruning guide follows.
Plants that flower only on the previous year's growth should have the weak and dead stems removed as soon as it is done flowering. Prune to desired height.
Plants that flower on last years growth and new growth should have the weak and dead stems removed and healthy stems cut to a variety of lengths in late February or early March.
Plants that flower only on current season's growth should have the weak and dead stems removed. Healthy stems can be pruned to as low as 2 strong buds above the ground or as high as you want. New growth will start close to the cut. This pruning is done late February or early March.
Clematis grow best in locations that receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. The roots should be kept shaded and moist. This is easily done by added 3 inches of pine mulch around the base of the plant. Water during hot dry spells.
Because different cultivars bloom at different times, and are available in a variety of colours and flower shapes and sizes, it is possible to have a flowery showing all season long. The picture is from an early blooming, second year planting Ruby Glow.
Have fun and enjoy your garden.

JAPANESE BARBERRY
Brian Gill
May, 21 2012

JAPANESE BARBERRY
Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) is a thorny, deciduous broadleaf shrub that has a variety of leaf colours. Leaf colour can range from summer green / fall scarlet red and deep maroon / bright red. This shrub likes well drained soil and is very tolerant to pollution, shade, and drought. There are virtually no insect of disease problem with this shrub.
The main uses for this shrub have been as foundation plants, erosion control, and hedges (living fence). It is also very deer resistant.
If left unchecked, it can grow as high as 8 feet and as wide as 7 feet, depending on the cultivar. It is also considered a moderate invasive species. As far as pruning goes, it is very easy to maintain. There is no problem giving it a severe pruning or shearing any time of year.
Check with your local garden centre for advise on the use of this shrub in your area.

PLANTING ANNUALS
Kylie Vandewiel
May, 13 2012

When to plant annuals:
Spring came bright and early this year and I know as soon as the snow is gone and we can see the ground the first thing we want to do is, add colour to our gardens. Annuals are a perfect way to add lots of colour for you whole gardening season. The number one thing to consider is are we going to get frost. Annuals cannot live if they are planted and hit with frost. Pansy's are a hardier annual which can stand frost but not always everyone's favorite. The best thing to do is buy your annuals put them outside during the day and bring them in at night until frost is no longer in the forecast. Any potted or hanging arrangements should be brought inside at night as well. For a quick rule of thumb the May long weekend is usually as good time to plant your annuals. Be sure to watch the forecast so you do not put your annuals out too early and then have to go back to the garden centre to buy more!

Photo taken at Ayr Country Gardens

NATIVE PERRENIALS
Brian Gill
May, 6 2012

NATIVE PERENNIALS

When planting perennials don't overlook native plant species. With a bit of research you can find native plant species for all types of soil conditions, all heights and colours and a wide variety of bloom times. Most native plants are very low maintenance and very drought tolerant. Below are a few of my favorites.

Bearberry / Kinnikinick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a low ground cover that does well in full sun and partial shade. It has green foliage and red fruit.

Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum) and Mayapple (Podyphyllum peltatum) both do well in shady locations. This fern does not do well in a windy area.

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) is a perennial bunch grass that grows about 125 - 150 cm. tall. It turns a copper colour in the fall.

Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) is the bright yellow flower you see in swamps early in the spring. If you have wet areas on your property try this plant. It is very hardy.

Asters. There are a wide variety of native aster of varying heights and colour for full sun locations.

These are just a few of my choices. As with most things in life, gardening is a personal preference. Decide what you like and have fun.

LAWNMOWER SAFETY
Sean Gannon
April, 29 2012

Lawnmower Safety
There is more to cutting grass than most people usually think about. Just like every job, safety is extremely important. Here are some safety tips you should think about before cutting your lawn. First of all take time to learn about your machine by reading your owner's manual. Once you have read that, go over your machine to determine the purpose of all controls, gauges and dials. It's also very important to learn safe speed, slope capabilities, steering and braking, turning radius and operating clearances.
Once you have a complete understanding on how your lawn mower works it is just as important you check it over each day you use it. Make sure safety guards are in place and secure. You should repair any loose parts and replace broken ones. Its very important that you check all fluid levels like gasoline/diesel, engine oil and coolant. Also check tire pressure. The last step before beginning the work is to check your work area. Make sure there is nothing on your lawn that could be thrown by the mower. And finally is there any conditions that could be hazardous? i.e. ditches, slopes, stumps or potholes. Once you have determined all of the above and have started mowing just remember you must pay attention to the job and your surroundings at all times until the job is complete.
Happy Mowing.
Sean Gannon.

FLOWERING ALMOND
Brian Gill
April, 22 2012

FLOWERING ALMOND
Flowering Almond (Prunus japonica) is also known as Korean Cherry. This is a fast growing, spring flowering shrub that can also be trained for a trellis. If left unchecked, it can reach 12 feet in height. This shrub doesn't like to be transplanted, so choose the site carefully. It is adaptable to most soil conditions but prefers light, well-drained soil. This is a great shrub to attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
This deciduous shrub blooms in the spring and should be pruned immediately after flowering. Remove any dead or weak branches at ground level. Prune out any cross branches that are rubbing together. Keep any suckers pruned out. Shape the shrub by pruning the branches, never removing more than 1/3 of the branch. If the shrub blooms before June 15th, then prune immediately after flowering. If the shrub blooms after June 15th, it can be pruned in early spring.
If unsure of pruning, check with your local garden centre for advise.

EMPLOYEE TRAINING
Ryan Johnson
April, 15 2012

Employee Training.
It amazes most of our customers how much we stress training with our staff. There is a common belief that everyone knows how to cut grass since they've been doing it all their life. On the landscaping side I've heard that they can understand wanting our staff to have some plant identification training but otherwise it's just digging holes.
Anyone can ride a lawn mower around a yard and cut the grass. The difference between an excellent company and one that does the minimum required is in the quality of the people performing the task. The first level of training we undertake is that mandated by law. To operate in this province all employees must undertake WHMIS training within 3 days of employment. This includes the safe handling of hazardous materials and familiarization with OSHA regulations. This basic and required step is overlooked by the vast majority of contractors. Our staff also participate in an online continuous training program called Landscape Safety. This program allows us to tailor each employees training through a serious of modules depending on what the employees skill sets are. The modules include basic safety and procedural concerns such as proper lifting and handling of heavy objects to connecting trailers to trucks. They also cover specific equipment like power edgers, utility tractors, and several different styles of lawn mowers. The program requires an annual review of all topics assigned to each staff member.
We also utilize more intensive programs through our affiliation with Landscape Ontario. Primarily through the winter months there are hundreds of courses available to us ranging from operational procedures of equipment to customer relations, marketing and supervisor skill development.
It may be true that almost anyone can operate a lawn mower, but when that person can operate a lawn mower, understand the laws governing that operation, effectively motivate a crew and deal with customer concerns, they become an huge asset for us that none of our competitors can offer.

LAWN AERATION
Brian Gill
April, 4 2012

LAWN AERATION

There are two types of aerators, spike and core. A spike aerator has wedge shaped solid spikes and pokes a hole in the lawn. A core aerator has hollow tines and literally pulls plugs of soil out of the lawn leaving holes in the turf. It is best done twice a year, spring and fall.

There are several benefits to aerating a lawn.
1. Hard, compacted soil leads to shallow root systems. By aerating you are loosening the soil which helps in deep root growth. The plugs of earth left on the lawn break down providing free top dressing.
2. Compacted lawns lead to poor transfer of oxygen and nutrients to the root system. Aeration loosens the soil to aid in developing a healthy lawn.
3. A healthy root system promotes new growth. A thick healthy lawn is more resistant to weed growth.
4. Aerating also aids in breaking up the thatch layer. Insects thrive in a thick thatch build up so by aerating you are destroying insect habitat. Thatch is a thick layer of living and dead stems and leaves that has accumulated between the growing grass and the soil.
5. Fertilizer and water absorption at the root level is also greatly enhanced by aeration.
6. There is less frost heaving in a well maintained lawn.
7. Aerating is also a great benefit when fall overseeding.
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Aerating twice a year combined with a program of correct watering, overseeding, an organic fertilizer and weed control program will help you have a lush, green healthy lawn.

Brian Gill

THE THATCH MYTH
John Perriman
March, 31 2012

The Thatch Myth

It is a common misconception that thatch is bad for your turf. So many people have been spending a day in the spring out raking the whole yard and gathering up the dead grass, in reality it is free fertilizer. As the grass clippings break down they actually release nitrogen back into the soil. Problems occur when the thatch builds up it restricts airflow to the root zone. This creates a layer in which molds can form. The way to combat this is to use core aeration. By pulling the cores you break up the thatch layer and that helps it break down faster. Aeration really improves airflow to the root zone and is a great form of root pruning as well. So leave the thatch where it is and have your lawn aerated, less work, healthier turf.

SPRING PLANTERS
Kylie Vandewiel
March, 25 2012

SPRING PLANTERS

Done with the winter blues? Want to get into the spring spirit? Try turning your winter arrangements into spring planters. Bringing your planters inside when the ground is frozen will allow the soil to thaw so you can get your spring planters together a little bit earlier. If you want to have planters out when there is still frost over night, you should bring them into your garage or under your porch where they will not get hit by frost. It is a good idea to do this because frost damage can kill the plants. Spring bulbs, pansies and campanulas are all great for spring planters. Good spring accents are moss around the bottom of the plants so you can't see the soil and use Pussy Willows to add tall accents. When putting your plants in the planter it is much easier to work with moist potting soil. Potting soil contains dirt, peat moss, vermiculite, perlite and fertilizer. These help the drainage and retain enough moisture. If you want Easter planters, add Easter Lilies and other Easter accents.

Photo taken at Ayr Country Gardens

Next week Ryan will discuss Mountview's Employee Training

LAWNMOWER SAFETY CHECKLIST
Sean Gannon
March, 18 2012

Lawnmower Safety checklist
Here is a quick checklist you should consider prior to mowing your lawn.

1. Do I have proper Footwear?
2. Am I wearing personal protection, ear plugs, safety glasses etc?
3. Are all safety guards in place and secure?
4. Have I filled mower with proper fuel?
5. Have I checked all fluid levels? Engine oil, coolant etc.
6. Have I checked tire pressure?
7. Are mower blades sharp?
8. Have I looked for all potential hazards?
9. Is mowing area cleared of all persons and pets?
Please ensure you have answered yes to everything on this checklist. Safety is the most important part of every job.
Safety First.
Sean Gannon.

PONDLESS WATER FEATURES
John Perriman
March, 11 2012

Pondless water features
There is nothing more relaxing in your back yard than the sound of water. For years the best way to achieve that was the installation of a small pond and waterfall. While they sound great and look beautiful ponds can be a lot of maintenance, especially when you need to find a leak. In the past few years we have had great success with pondless water features. These include waterfalls without a pond at the bottom and a wide range of options for bubblers. The bubblers we typical install are large stones with a hole drilled in them. These stones sit on top of a hard plastic basin eliminating the possibility for leaks. A pump is installed in the basin and tubing in the hole drilled in the stone to direct the water to the top of the stone. Job done, the relaxing sound of water without the work of the pond! For more examples of water features, both pondless and waterfalls that involve pond check out our website

GARDEN TRENDS FOR 2012
Brian Gill
March, 4 2012

GARDENING TRENDS FOR 2012

Listed below, in no particular order, are some of the trends to watch for and be aware of for this coming year.

Container gardening will continue to grow in popularity.

Houseplants are making a come back. Remember, a plant generates oxygen, helps clean indoor air, and adds colour and texture to a room.

Plantings to attract birds are still on the rise.

Smaller water features will grow in popularity. As the holding system for the water is hidden, they are referred to as pondless. Small waterfalls and bubblers (rocks with a hole) are part of this feature.

Low maintenance and drought tolerant plants will continue to be popular.

Adding winter interest to a garden using grasses, evergreens and shrubs with berries will continue to grow.

Watch for QR (quick response) codes on plant labels at your garden centres. These codes are small black squares that make no sense. Scan them with your smart phone and you get all the pertinent information on the plant. A code reader is needed and if your phone doesn't have one, check your app downloads. Proven Winners and Burpee Seeds are two companies that I am aware off that should have QR Codes on their products this year.

For more information send us an e-mail or check with your local landscaper or garden centre.

Next week John will be here to discuss pondless water features.

WELCOME
Brian Gill
February, 27 2012

Welcome to Mountview Services Inc.'s new weekly blog. We will be providing information on all aspects of the landscaping industry.

Mountview Services Inc. has a person with 25 years experience in the landscaping industry as well as a graduate of the horticulture program at the University of Guelph and Kwantlen University College (British Columbia) in Greenhouse Nursery Management and graduates of the Horticulture programs at Niagara and Humber College working for them. There are also 5 people that have been with the company over 5 years. To utilize this vast knowledge, the employees will be contributing on a regular basis. From time to time a guest from elsewhere in the industry will drop by to say a few words.

If there is an aspect of landscaping you would like more information on, e-mail your request to info@mountviewservices.com or the author at the e-mail address provided weekly by the writer.

Don't forget to like Mountview Services Inc. on Facebook.

See you next week for a list of garden trends for 2012.

Large enough to serve you, small enough to serve you well.

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